The present application relates to oil-containing personal wash compositions or emulsions, preferably, cleansing, wash-off compositions or emulsions comprising particles having high refractive index (e.g., external surface having refractive indexxe2x89xa71.6) and defined thickness, geometry and size (e.g., optionally hydrophobically modified mica particles meeting defined parameters). Said particles are delivered, for example, in oil-containing bar compositions or as particle-in-oil liquid emulsion compositions. The particles enhance the shine of skin or other substrate on which they are deposited and reduce the appearance of flaws or defects on the substrate (e.g., skin).
In a second embodiment, the application relates to a method of enhancing skin shine and/or reducing flaws in the appearance of the skin using oil-containing personal wash compositions or emulsions comprising particles as noted above.
One of the attributes desired by consumers is shiny, healthy-looking skin. Traditionally, skin xe2x80x9cshinexe2x80x9d has been achieved by depositions of oils onto substrates (e.g., skin surface). To applicants knowledge, use of specific particles of the invention in oil-containing, rinse-off personal wash compositions (e.g., to enhance shine) is not known. This may be due in part to the inability (prior to subject invention) to deliver such particles in a wash-off composition (bar or liquid).
The use of particles generally (e.g., mica with green interference color) in personal care compositions is not novel. Thus, for example, International Publication WO 00/51551 (assigned to Procter and Gamble) describes leave-on skin care compositions containing coated mica with green interference color. As indicated the compositions are topical leave-on compositions (see abstract) designed for hand and body.
The particles in the WO ""551 reference are used as interference particles, not to enhance shine. They have a TiO2 layer thickness in a range of from about 150 nm to about 250 nm (column 6, line 23); this is far smaller than the upper range of thickness claimed for the shine-enhancing particles of the invention (thickness greater than 0.5 microns, or 500 nanometers); and greater than the lower range of thickness claimed (thickness of less than or equal to 0.1 micron or 100 nanometers).
Also, the particles of the invention must have a flat, plate-like geometry to ensure shine enhancement. Most critically, perhaps, the reference fails to teach or suggest that the particles must be used in oil-containing, rinse-off compositions.
Particles having a thickness within the preferred range are also known (Timron(copyright) particles) but these particles have also not been used in oil-containing, personal wash, rinse-off compositions. Further, they have not been hydrophobically modified as is required in at least one embodiment of the subject invention (i.e., when used as liquids).
Timron(copyright) particles sold by EM Industries, for example, are disclosed in a brochure but, as noted, there is no teaching or suggestion in the brochure or any other art that the Timron(copyright) product can be used in oil-containing personal wash, rinse-off compositions (bar or liquid) to enhance shine. That is, there is simply no disclosure of such particles in oil-containing bars, or in particle-in-oil emulsions used as personal wash compositions.
In summary, pigments used in WO ""551 do not recognize the preferred particle thickness or criticality of refractive index; and, where particles of same thickness as those of the invention are known (Timron(copyright) products), there is no teaching or suggestion of using these in oil-containing, personal wash, rinse-off compositions (e.g., to enhance shine).
Unexpectedly, applicants have now found that rinse-off personal wash compositions (preferably, but not necessarily, surfactant-containing) comprising flat, plate-like particles which particles (outer surface of particles) have a defined refractive index, a preferred thickness and maximum length, and wherein said particles are delivered in compositions/emulsions comprising at least 0.01% to 75% oil provide superior shine compared, for example, to compositions having particles which are delivered in non oil-containing compositions. In one embodiment of the invention, the particle itself is also hydrophobically modified. While not wishing to be bound by theory, this is believed to help the particle suspend better in oil (e.g., particle suspended in a particle-in-oil emulsion and delivered as oil emollient) and be more readily delivered to substrate.
More specifically, the present invention comprises a rinse-off personal wash composition comprising:
(1) 0% to 75%, preferably 3% to 65% by weight composition of surfactant;
(2) 0.01% to 20%, preferably 0.02 to 10% by wt. of a particle defined by:
(a) having an exterior surface which has a refractive index of xe2x89xa71.6;
(b) having a flat, plate-like geometry;
(c) having a length of particle less than 150 microns; and
(d) having 0% to 5%, preferably 0.001 to 4% by wt. particle of a hydrophobic modifying agent; and
(3) 0.1% to 75%, preferably 0.5% to 25% by wt., even more preferably 1% to 15% by wt. of a benefit agent or emollient.
In a preferred embodiment, the particle (2) has a thickness of particle (whether hydrophobically modified or not) of greater than or equal to 0.5 microns or less than or equal to 0.1 microns.
In another embodiment, the invention comprises a method of enhancing shine of skin or other substrate using any of the compositions noted above.
The present invention relates to compositions for and methods for enhancing shine of skin or other substrate.
More specifically, applicants have found that oil-containing, rinse-off, personal wash compositions comprising specified platelet-like particles delivered in oil-containing bar compositions or as particle-in-oil liquid emulsions unexpectedly significantly enhance shine as defined by a shine measurement test disclosed herein.
The novel personal wash compositions of the invention are rinse-off compositions. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed the required oil (e.g., emollient/benefit agent) helps deliver the particles which normally might be expected to readily wash off (providing no shine benefit) from such compositions.
In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention comprise:
(1) 0% to 75%, preferably 3% to 65% by wt. of a surfactant or surfactants selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, amphoteric/zwitterionic, cationic surfactant and mixtures thereof;
(2) 0.01% to 20%, preferably 0.02 to 10% by wt. of particle, wherein the particles are defined by the following characteristics:
(a) having an exterior surface which has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.6;
(b) having flat, plate-like geometry;
(c) having a particle length less than 150 microns; and
(d) having 0% to 5%, preferably 0.001% to 4% by wt. particle of a hydrophobic modifying agent; and
(3) 0.1% to 75% by wt. preferably 0.5 to 25%, more preferably 1% to 15% of composition of a benefit agent or emollient.
In a preferred embodiment, particle (2) has a thickness of particle (whether hydrophobically modified or not) of greater than or equal to 0.5 microns or less than or equal to 0.1 microns;
Finally, the invention also relates to method of enhancing shine using any of these compositions.
Compositions of the invention are described in greater detail below.
The compositions of the invention are xe2x80x9crinse-off compositions by which is meant that they are intended to be water or rinse-off substrate after applications in contrast to leave-on lotions or cosmetics. The rinse-off composition may be applied as a bar or liquid such as in personal wash liquids and bars.
Surfactants
The compositions of the invention may comprise 0% to 75%, preferably 3% to 65% of a surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, amphoteric/zwitterionic, cationic surfactant and mixtures thereof.
Among suitable anionic actives which may be used are the alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates, alkyl ether sulfonates, sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, taurates and combinations thereof. Among suitable amphoteric actives may be included alkylbetaines, amidopropyl betaines, amidopropyl sultaines and combinations thereof.
Alkyl ether sulfates of the present invention will be of the general formula
Rxe2x80x94(OCH2CH2)nOSO3xe2x80x94M+
wherein R ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, preferably C12-C15 alkyl, n is an integer from 1 to 40, preferably from 2 to 9, optimally about 3, and M+ is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation.
Typical commercial co-actives of this variety are listed in the Table below:
Alkyl ether sulfonates may also be employed for the present invention. Illustrative of this category is a commercial product known as Avenel S-150 commonly known as a sodium C12-C15 Pareth-15 sulfonate.
Another active type suitable for use in the present invention is that of the sulfosuccinates. This category is best represented by the monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula R2OCCH2CH(SO3xe2x80x94Na+)COOxe2x80x94M+; and amido-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula: RCONHCH2CH2O2CCH2CH(SO3xe2x80x94M+)COOxe2x80x94M+; wherein R ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, preferably C12-C15 alkyl and M+ is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below:
Sarcosinates may also be useful in the present invention as a co-active. This category is indicated by the general formula RCON(CH3)CH2CO2xe2x80x94M+, wherein R ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, preferably C12-C15 alkyl and M+ is a sodium, potassium ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below:
Taurates may also be employed in the present invention as co-actives. These materials are generally identified by the formula RCONRxe2x80x2CH2CH2SO3xe2x80x94M+, wherein R ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, preferably C12-C15 alkyl, Rxe2x80x2 ranges from C1-C4 alkyl, and M+is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are those listed in the Table below:
Within the category of amphoterics there are three general categories suitable for the present invention. These include alkylbetaines of the formula RN+(CH3)2CH2CO2xe2x80x94M+, amidopropyl betaines of the formula RCONHCH2CH2CH2N+(CH3)2CH2CO2xe2x80x94M+, and amidopropyl sultaines of the formula RCONHCH2CH2N+(CH3)2CH2SO3xe2x80x94M+wherein R ranges from C8-C20 alkyl, preferably C12-C15 alkyl, and M+ is a sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolammonium cation. Typical commercial products representative of these co-actives are found in the Table below:
Within the broad category of liquid actives, the most effective are the alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfonates, sulfosuccinates, and amidopropyl betaines.
Another preferred surfactant is an acyl isethionate having the formula 
in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group and M denotes an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or an amine.
Another surfactant which may be used are the monoalkyl or dialkylphosphate surfactants.
Another mild surfactant which may be used, preferably used as primary surfactant in combination with other surfactants noted above, is sodium coco glyceryl ether sulfonate. While desirable to use because of its mildness properties, this coco AGS alone does not provide optimum lather creaminess. A sodium 90/10 coconut/tallow alkyl AGS distribution is preferred for creaminess. Salts other than the sodium salt such as TEA-, ammonium, and K-AGS and chain length distributions other than 90/10 coconut/tallow are usable at moderate levels. Also, some soap may be added to improve lather volume and speed of lathering. Certain secondary co-surfactants used in combination with AGS can also provide a creamier and more stable lather. These secondary surfactants should also be intrinsically mild. One secondary surfactant that has been found to be especially desirable is sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (trade name Hamposyl L, made by Hampshire Chemical).
The amphoteric betaines and sultaines noted above can be used as the sole surfactant, but are more preferred as a co-surfactant. Nonionics generally should not be used as the sole surfactant in this product if high foaming is desirable; however, they can be incorporated as a co-surfactant.
Nonionic and cationic surfactants which may be used include any one of those described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,761,418 to Parran, Jr., hereby incorporated by reference into the subject application. Also included are the aldobionamides as taught in U.S. Pat. No. 5,389,279 to Au et al; and the polyhydroxy fatty acid amides as taught in U.S. Pat. No. 5,312,934 to Lefton, both of which are incorporated by reference into the subject application.
Soaps may be used at levels of about 0.1 to 10%. Soaps can be used at higher level (for example, to provide soap-like feel) provided that the overall surfactant mixture is milder than soap and retains zein values within the scope of the invention. The soaps may be added neat or made in situ via adding a base, e.g., NaOH; to convert free fatty acids.
A preferred surfactant active system is one such that acyl isethionate comprises 1 to 15% by weight of the total composition and/or an anionic other than acyl isethionate (e.g., ammonium lauryl ether sulfate) comprises 1 to 15% by weight of the total composition and amphoteric comprises 0.5 to 15% by weight of the total composition.
Another preferred active system is one comprising 1 to 20% alkyl ether sulfate. Preferred surfactant systems may also contain 1 to 10% alkali metal lauryl sulfate or C14-C16 olefin sulphonate instead of acyl isethionate.
Composition Comprising Particle and Oil
One key to the subject invention is that the particles (e.g., TiO2 coated substrate, such as mica, optionally comprising SiO2 or other core) are used in rinse-off personal wash compositions which must comprise oil. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the oil is believed critical to deposit particle (providing shine) in such rinse-off compositions. The rinse-off can be a liquid composition (in which case hydrophobic surface modifier is also required) or a bar composition (where no modifier is needed).
The particle which is used before forming the particle-in-oil compositions is itself defined by the following characteristics:
(a) must have an external surface (whether substrate is solid or has a core) which has a refractive index of xe2x89xa71.6 (where refractive index (n) of a substance is defined as Vv/V, where Vv is velocity of light in a vacuum and V is the velocity of light in the substance);
(b) must have flat, plate-like geometry; (This distinction helps distinguish over, for example, the interference pigments of the art which need not be flat);
(c) must have a thickness of particle (whether the particle is hydrophobically modified as required in PW liquids or not) of xe2x89xa70.5 microns or less than or equal to 0.1 microns;
(d) have a particle length of  less than 150 xcexc.
This is important because the higher particle size can be more obviously seen and therefore does not provide an aesthetic uniform appearance which would generally be more desirable to consumers. Also, there may be some issues associated with safety for larger size particles; and
(e) optional hydrophobic modification of surface (except when used in liquid compositions where modification is required; this modification helps ensure deposition of the particle).
Particles such as those described above are similar to those described in a Brochure to Rona(copyright) entitled xe2x80x9cSpecial Effect Pigmentsxe2x80x9d, published 1998 (except for surface modification).
What neither the brochure, or any other art of which applicants are aware, discloses, however, is use of rinse-off personal wash compositions comprising such particles and benefit agent or emollient (as oil-in-water emulsion in liquid or separate emollient in bar, for example). Specifically, compositions require 0.1% to 75%, preferably 0.5% to 25% by wt. benefit agent for minimal amount of deposition.
Unexpectedly, applicants have found that when emollient is used, it significantly enhances shine of the skin.
Examples of hydrophobic modifying agents which may be used include any of the oils/emollient discussed later herein in connection with the liquid compositions of the subject invention. These include esters (e.g., mono and diesters), fatty acids and alcohols (e.g., palmitic and stearyl alcohols and acids); alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds (e.g., propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin); polymeric polyols (e.g., polypropylene glycol and polyethylene glycol); C12-C30 hydrocarbons (e.g., mineral oil, petrolatum, squalene and isoparaffins).
The hydrophobic modifying may comprise 0.001 to 5%, preferably 0.0015 to 4% by wt. particle.
Liquid Compositions
When liquid, products of the invention may be structured using, for example, external structurants such as cross-linked polyacrylates and/or clays or they may be structured with other components (e.g., unsaturated and/or branched long chain C8 to C24 liquid fatty acid or ester derivatives) which would cause the liquid to have a xe2x80x9clamellarxe2x80x9d structure as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,952,286.
The liquid products may have (in addition to surfactant component described previously) other ingredients typically found in liquid formulations. Among these are included (without limitation) auxiliary thickeners (e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose); perfumes; sequestering agents (e.g., ethyl diamine tetra acetate, known as EDTA); coloring agents; opacifiers and pearlizers (e.g., zinc or magnesium stearate, titanium dioxide).
Other optionals include antimicrobial agents; preservatives (e.g., parabens, sorbic acid); suds boosters (e.g., coconut acyl mono- or diethanolamide); antioxidants; cationic conditioners (e.g., Merquat(copyright) and Jaguar(copyright) type conditioners); polyalkylene glycols, glycerin and other water-soluble conditioning agents; thickeners; exfoliates; ionizing salts; organic acids (e.g., citric or lactic acid).
As noted, the liquid compositions also must contain an oil (emollient).
Emollients are incorporated into the compositions of the present invention at a range from about 0.1 to about 75%, preferably between about 0.5 and 25% by weight of the total composition. Emollients may be classified under such general chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, vegetable oils, polyols and hydrocarbons.
Esters may be mono- or di-esters. Acceptable examples of fatty di-esters include dibutyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl dimerate, and dioctyl succinate. Acceptable branched chain fatty esters include 2-ethyl-hexyl myristate, isopropyl stearate and isostearyl palmitate. Acceptable tribasic acid esters include triisopropyl trilinoleate and trilauryl citrate. Acceptable straight chain fatty esters include lauryl palmitate, myristyl lactate, oleyl eurcate and stearyl oleate. Preferred esters include coco-caprylate and co-caprate), propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyl adipate and cetyl octanoate.
Suitable fatty alcohols and acids include those compounds having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are such compounds such as cetyl, myristyl, palmitic and stearyl alcohols and acids.
Vegetable oils include orachis oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower seed and sesame seed oil, soybean oil.
Among the polyols which may serve as emollients are linear and branched chain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds. For example, propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin are preferred. Also useful may be polymeric polyols such as polypropylene glycol and polyethylene glycol.
Exemplary hydrocarbons which may serve as emollients are those having hydrocarbon chains anywhere from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Specific examples include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, squalene and isoparaffins.
Another category of functional ingredients within the liquid compositions of the present invention are thickeners. A thickener will usually be present in amounts anywhere from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition. Exemplary thickeners are cross-linked polyacrylate materials available under the trademark Carbopol from the B. F. Goodrich Company. Gums may be employed such as xanthan, carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under certain circumstances the thickening function may be accomplished by a material also serving as a silicone or emollient. For instance, silicone gums in excess of 10 centistokes and esters such as glycerol stearate have dual, functionality.
Various types of active ingredients may be present in compositions of the present invention. Actives are defined as skin benefit agents other than emollients and other than ingredients that merely improve the physical characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this category, general examples include sunscreens, tanning agents, skin anti-wrinkling agents and anti-acne agents.
Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light. Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and salicylate. For example, octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-4 methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun""s UV radiation.
Additional vitamins may also be included in the compositions of the present invention. Especially preferred is vitamin A palmitate (retinol palmitate) and vitamin E linoleate (tocopherol linoleate). Other esters of vitamins A and E may also be utilized.
Many compositions, especially those containing water, must be protected against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Preservatives are, therefore, necessary. Suitable preservatives include alkyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds.
Particularly preferred preservatives of this invention are methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dihydroxyacetate and benzyl alcohol. Preservatives ill usually be employed in amounts ranging from about 0.5% to 2% by weight of the composition.
Powders may be incorporated into the composition of the invention. These powders include chalk, talc, fullers earth, kaolin, starch, smectites clays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate and mixtures thereof.
In another embodiment, the compositions may be delivered in the form of a bar composition.
Bar compositions may comprise 5% to 90% by wt. of a surfactant wherein the surfactants may be any of the surfactants noted above (e.g., anionics, nonionics, amphoteric/zwifterionics, cationics) or mixtures thereof. As with liquid cleansers noted above, the amount of pure soap actually used is preferably not too high as to effect overall harshness of the bar.
The bar compositions also comprises 0.1 to 20% water, preferably 1 to 15% by wt. water.
The bar composition further comprises 0.1 to 80% by wt., preferably 5% to 75% by wt. of a structuring aid and/or inert filler. Such structurants can be used to enhance the bar integrity, improve the processing properties, and enhance desired user sensory profiles.
The structurant is generally long chain, preferably straight and saturated, (C8-C24) fatty acid or ester derivative thereof; and/or branched long chain, preferably straight and saturated, (C8-C24) alcohol or ether derivatives thereof.
A preferred bar structurant is polyalkylene glycol with molecular weight between 2000 and 20,000, preferably between 3000 and 10,000. Those PEGs are commercially available, such as those marketed under the tradename of CARBOWAX SENTRY PEG8000(copyright) or PEG4000(copyright) by Union Carbide.
Other ingredients that can be used as structurants or fillers include starches, preferably water soluble starches such as maltodextrin and polyethylene wax or paraffin wax.
Structuring aids can also be selected from water soluble polymers chemically modified with hydrophobic moiety or moieties, for example, EO-PO block copolymer, hydrophobically modified PEGs such as POE(200-glyceryl-stearate, glucam DOE 120 (PEG Methyl Glucose Dioleate), and Hodg CSA-102 (PEG-150 stearate), and Rewoderm(copyright) (PEG modified glyceryl cocoate, palmate or tallowate) from Rewo Chemicals.
Other structuring aids which may be used include Amerchol Polymer HM 1500 (Nonoxynyl Hydroethyl Cellulose).
In addition, the bar compositions of the invention may include 0 to 15% by wt. optional ingredients as follows:
perfumes; sequestering agents, such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), EHDP or mixtures in an amount of 0.01 to 1%, preferably 0.01 to 0.05%; and coloring agents, opacifiers and pearlizers such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiO2, EGMS (ethylene glycol monostearate) or Lytron 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer); all of which are useful in enhancing the appearance or cosmetic properties of the product.
The compositions may further comprise antimicrobials such as 2-hydroxy-4,2xe2x80x24xe2x80x2 trichlorodiphenylether (DP300); preservatives such as dimethyloldimethyihydantoin (Glydant XL1000), parabens, sorbic acid etc.
The compositions may also comprise coconut acyl mono- or diethanol amides as suds boosters, and strongly ionizing salts such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfate may also be used to advantage.
Antioxidants such as, for example, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) may be used advantageously in amounts of about 0.01% or higher if appropriate.
Cationic polymers as conditioners which may be used include Quatrisoft LM-200 Polyquaternium-24, Merquat Plus 3330-Polyquaternium 39; and Jaguar(copyright) type conditioners.
Polyethylene glycols as conditioners which may be used include:
Another ingredient which may be included are exfoliants such as polyoxyethylene beads, walnut shells and apricot seeds.
Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, opacifiers and perfumes. Amounts of these materials may range anywhere from 0.001 up to 20% by weight of the composition.
In yet another embodiment, the invention relates to a method enhancing shine using novel compositions of the invention.
Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of materials or conditions or reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word xe2x80x9caboutxe2x80x9d.
Where used in the specification, the term xe2x80x9ccomprisingxe2x80x9d is intended to include the presence of stated features, integers, steps, components, but not to preclude the presence or addition of one or more features, integers, steps, components or groups thereof.